Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

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dscuba
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Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by dscuba »

Recently I've been getting frustrated with diving. My $3000 drysuit (brand name, top of the line) leaks in the feet and arms just 40 dives after I sent it back to the factory to get brand new feet put on it. My $1200 HID light (also brand name) cuts out 5 times per dive starting just 3 dives after having the factory "fix" it for pretty much the same exact behavior. I'm starting to question whether it's actually worth it.
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CaptnJack
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by CaptnJack »

DUI? As in dry until immersed?

Who's light and what type is it?
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dscuba
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by dscuba »

DUI and Light Monkey 21w HID with e/o (is e/o notoriously flaky???).
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Desert Diver
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by Desert Diver »

My $750 DUI doesn't leak at all. I like pretested stuff.
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by dscuba »

I paid the $#@%$ "testing fee".
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spatman
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by spatman »

Surprised to hear about the LM light. Their customer service is usually fantastic. I would recommend following up with them again.

As for whether it's worth it, that is totally subjective. I've spent thousands of dollars on gear and fuel plus have to drive at least 2.5 hrs to dive and it's usually worth it to me. To others, my situation may not be. To each their own.
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Gdog
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by Gdog »

If it's any consolation my $1500 USIA drysuit leaks in the right boot and right sleeve and has since about 6 months after new purchase. On the other hand it has probably at least 250 dives on it, mostly while leaking. It is in now for repair which was supposedly a 1-2 week turnaround, going on 4 weeks now. However, since I am a dive addict, it is still all worth it to me regardless of the frustration. For what its worth my old drysuit leaked at the seam in the crotch for a few hundred dives, so at least my situation improved a bit...
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CaptnJack
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by CaptnJack »

dscuba wrote:DUI and Light Monkey 21w HID with e/o (is e/o notoriously flaky???).
Yes E/Os are very flakey and should never be disconnected while the switch is on. That ruins them in a few seconds via electrolysis.

I have never had a suit with more problems than my DUI. Would never recommend them or buy one again either.
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Clay
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by Clay »

So Ive had multiple suits in my 14 years diving up here, I've been diving my DUI for 3 years now and it's by far the best suit I've owned. If its leaking I would take it to Tacoma Scuba and ask them to take a look at it, they are amazing with them and you will most likely get it back in a week. I don't know you so I'm gonna assume you know that you should never walk around in the suit without the boots on, "most of us use a mat to protect the socks" and sometimes there is excessive moisture build up within the suits due to condensation. you should also triple check your zip seals, make sure they're in all the way, and flat against your skin.
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BillZ
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by BillZ »

Ya just need to take it in stride and realize that fixing your gear is a part of the diving experience. Between the boat and my dive gear I probably spend about 3X the amount of time fixing, repairing and maintaining things as I do underwater.

As for the drysuit, have you pressure tested it yourself to see where the leak is? If it's a small leak I wouldn't bother sending it back to DUI, I'd just fix it and be done with it.
Here's a quick procedure to pressure test your drysuit:
You'll need: Tank and regulators, grease pencil or chalk, a spray bottle with water & dish soap, painters tape and a dam for your neck seal (a coffee can works although there are several different things that you can use)

1) Snap on your dry gloves and close your exhaust valve.

2) From the inside of the suit, insert the coffee can through the neck seal. You can use the painters tape to tape the neck seal to the can, but this isn't always necessary.

3) Close your zipper - your suit is now sealed

4) Hook up your regs to the power inflator and fill your suit with air. Keep filling the suit until the feet and arms come off the ground.

5) Walk away for 5 minutes. If the suit is sagging and the legs and arms are touching the ground you have a leak somewhere. If not your problem is either user error or you could have a bad dump valve.

6) If you have a leak you need to find it. Fill your suit back up with air. Starting in the area where you were getting wet spray your suit with the soapy water, paying close attention to the seams and zipper. Where their's a leak the soapy water will bubble. Mark the leak area with the grease pencil.

7) Continue to do the whole suit - You might as well check everything while you're at it and many times a drysuit will have multiple leaks.
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CaptnJack
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by CaptnJack »

IMHO The problem with the DUIs is the feet. Its very hard to pressure test the CF200 material they use. Leaks tend to be weepy and not produce bubbles unless there's so much air pressure you risk ripping a seal.
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LCF
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by LCF »

I am very surprised that you have had a recurrent problem with a Light Monkey light, but I will say that I am disgusted with E/O connectors. You can try cleaning them well with contact cleaner -- that seems to have done the trick for my suit heater, at least in the short run.

I have had LM lights for almost ten years. The few times I have had problems, they have had them fixed and back to me as fast as I could imagine.

On the other hand, learning to find and fix dry suit leaks is part of this sport, I'm afraid.
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Nwbrewer
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by Nwbrewer »

Like Bill said, blow it up, spray it down with soapy water, and look for the bubbles. When you find it, I find E-6000 works better than anything else for fixing the leaks. Use your thumb and grind it into the leaky spot. Wait 10-15 minutes, then coat it liberally with more e-6000. Fixed.

As far as the LM light, LCF said, send it back again and get rid of the EO thing. (or fix that yourself too, cord is available at most hardware stores, or Mcmaster-carr) 5 minutes of soldering and you're good to go.
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mpenders
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by mpenders »

CaptnJack wrote:IMHO The problem with the DUIs is the feet. Its very hard to pressure test the CF200 material they use. Leaks tend to be weepy and not produce bubbles unless there's so much air pressure you risk ripping a seal.
,

Another tactic: Turn suit inside out (easier without turbosoles) and let suit dry completely - no moisture anywhere. Support suit as necessary, and fill legs of suit with water. Look for dark (wet) spots. Now you might have a sporting chance at locating the leak.

Same type of test to find holes in drygloves, but no need to turn suit inside out. Support suit as necessary and fill arms with water (testing one arm at a time is easier to manage). Watch for drips and mark. Turn gloves inside out and dry completely, E6000 works great as sealer. Recently found 3 pinholes in my DUI zipgloves. $5 of E6000 is much more wallet-friendly than a new set of $$$$ zipgloves.
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ljjames
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by ljjames »

I use E/O's extensively on my lights. If you are not doing a lot of disconnecting/connecting they are not that bad. The only thing that has been flaky are the "Y" connectors and I figured out that they don't like to be bent and wiggled around, and after I started securing the Y to a flat surface that helped support them my issues were dramatically reduced.
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Dusty2
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by Dusty2 »

E/o connectors are a pita! I won't use them unless a customer insists. It's not a question of if they will fail it's when will they fail and they are damned expensive!
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kdupreez
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by kdupreez »

What type of suit is it? TLS, CF, CLX ?

Also, I had EO LM lights before and the EO piece was constantly cutting out.

LM told me to use a pair of flat pliers and squeeze the female ends of then connectors a little tighter and then use dielectric grease in there to ensure salt water doesnt penetrate it and also try not to disconnect/connect it too often under water.

That advice helped a lot.

unless you use the EO for legit reasons like suit heat or camera lights, etc., it is NOT worth the PITA to have them.

if you dont actively use EO, send it in and have them replace it with a non-EO cable.

like others have said, the "loose connection" making your light cut in/out will actualy reduce the lifetime of your bulb too..
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CaptnJack
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by CaptnJack »

I really don't like EOs but I have several for different purposes. If you are squishing the female end its gone IMHO. They last a little less than a year for me. The female end on the power side will get green and be spotty then its toast. I replace them myself though, diveExtras carries them. The lighthead side won't need replacement.
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Jeff Pack
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Re: Getting frustrated with the whole ordeal

Post by Jeff Pack »

I've been running EO connectors for 2 years on my vest and never an issue. But I'm also careful to use Dexoit(pro gold) and Shield on the connectors after every dive.
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