What a week in Nootka Sound!

Tell us your tale of coming nose-to-nose with a 6 gill [--this big--], or about your vacation to turquoise warm waters. Share your adventures here!
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spatman
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What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by spatman »

Last Friday I drove up to Mill Creek to meet up with John and prep for the trip to Tahsis the next morning. When I arrived, we spent a bit of time strategically packing the truck, which involved 8 large steel tanks, a couple al40s, an al80, two additional sets of 19cf bottles for his rebreather, plus all of the drysuits, regs, tons of other gear, and uh, what else? …oh yeah, clothes and such.

The next morning we were on the road by 6, and crossed in Canada and made the 10am ferry to Nanaimo without a problem.

Two hours later we were heading north to Campbell River, were we turned off onto a smaller road toward Gold River. After Gold River, we turned onto the road to Tahsis, which was 40 miles of potholes, gravel and a few stretches of actual pavement. This stretch was pretty grueling, having to really focus on the driving after many hours of traveling already.

By 5pm we pulled into Tahsis hungry, achy, and tired from a very long day. It was a long journey, but one that grew progressively more beautiful the further we traveled. The fall colors are stunning up there, creating bright yellow and orange patches and streaks along the steep side of the evergreen covered mountainsides. We passed many rivers, waterfalls, and fog laced lakes tucked away in small valleys and soaring canyon.

When we arrived we met up with the rest of group, Tom & Cindy and Calvin & Kimi, as well our hosts for the weekend, Scott & Jude from Tahtsa Dive Charters. We were led to our spacious rental house, where we unloaded some of our luggage. Then it was down to the only pub in town to have a couple cold ones and a quick dinner with the gang. On the way we saw two young bears galumphing down the road and off into the bushes as we approached.

At the pub, laughs were had and plans were hatched. We agreed that we would get a later start, to give us time to set up our gear and get to know our way around the shop and the boat. We then retired back to the house, where we all collapsed into our respective rooms and quickly passed out.

The next day was a leisurely day. We rolled out of bed, got ready, and headed down to the dock. As we were putzing around and tweaking our gear, the fog lifted from the water and the sun began peaking out above the mountain. Nootka Sound was still as glass and reflected the trees and blue sky almost perfectly.

Our gear was ready and loaded on the boat, and off we went to Mozino Point, a short ride away. We suited up as stellar sea lions and an otter swam and frolicked several yards away, all of us chatting excitedly and looking forward to seeing if the scenery below the surface was as spectacular as it was above.

The short answer is: yes, it certainly was.



I’m sitting here trying to figure out how to write up a report and I’m finding I really can’t even begin to explain how thoroughly enjoyable those 5 days were. So here’s a few short paragraphs that I hope can convey some of what we experienced.

First, I have to say that Scott and Jude really went out of their way for us. They arranged a great rental house for us that was both comfortable and amazingly inexpensive. They cooked us a terrific prawn and salmon dinner, they filled our tanks nice and full, and they were just a ton of fun to be around. I highly recommend that some or all of you reading this go out and spend some time diving with them in Tahsis.

The diving. My mind was blown within the first 10 minutes I was in the water. The viz was extraordinary, up to 80’. The amount of life was incredible and varied. The underwater topography was majestic and awe-inspiring. All 11 dives I did were rewarding in multiple ways. I really wish I had the words and the time to tell you all of the details from each dive. Hopefully our pics can convey a least a small fraction of how beautiful these dives were.

Highlights include several flybys from curious stellar sea lions, carpets of strawberry anemones, sheer walls and house sized boulders, dinner plate sized scallops everywhere, deep water Gorgonian corals, pristine cloud sponges of various sizes, absolutely massive colonies of Hooded Nudis whose heads were as big as my fist, and fearless rockfish, some of which would follow us around for large portions of the dives.

We even got to dive a virgin site that was awesome, with Giant Nudis everywhere munching tube anemones and swimming through the water. We named the site Nudi Kung Fu, since we have been watching martial arts movies all week and felt that the nudis exhibited Bruce Lee-like prowess when stalking and striking the tube anemones.

Ok, this is all I can write up for now. I’m sure that our other intrepid travelers will chime in with more info and anecdotes soon enough. I’ll post more pics and videos when I finish sorting through them all…

Go to Tahsis!

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Jenbowes
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Jenbowes »

Wow! You're right - simply spectacular!

Thanks for sharing!
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airsix
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by airsix »

Great report and media! :supz:

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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Tangfish »

Epic trip. The deep water gorgonian corals were absolutely spectacular. I'll be writing up a report as well, once I unbury myself from all of this email!
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Gooch »

Great report! The videos were mesmerizing...
http://nwdivers.me/blog/ Original articles and dive reports from local divers in the Vancouver, WA area. Suggestions for stories or your own reports are welcome!

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Tom Nic
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Tom Nic »

Epic is right! What a fantastic trip! The photos I've uploaded so far are here . These dives had me babbling more than usual - and here's one of the reasons why!

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Scott and Jude with Tahtsa Dive Charters treated us great – finding us a very nice and affordable rental home, diving on whatever schedule we wished, great fills, some great meals, and just being wonderful company.

The dive sites are close – you could leave the dock and be diving in 15-20 minutes if you were geared up. We didn’t even begin to dive all the sites that Scott goes to; much less do the exploring that beckoned seductively. We want to do a trip where we do at least half the dives on never before dove sites. Everywhere you look rock walls plunge into the water, and I’m betting that rock walls and boulders are more common than sandy beaches in the inlets.

And the company was a hoot! We didn’t set out for this to be a Mod trip, but it kind of ended up that way. Calvin and John flew their rebreathers and Matt and I were on open circuit. (Thanks Doug and Bill for the loan of the tanks – the 130’s and 119’s were ideal for the deeper diving that we did.)

The match seemed to work well as Calvin and John had their huge “Death Star” camera set ups, and ended up doing a couple dives to 190fsw at Mozino Point shooting the deepwater Gorgonian Corals. Wait till you see the pictures! Both of them have a ton of superb pictures. Matt and I had our point and shoots, and were well matched in both our diving styles, picture taking, and air consumption. I slung a 40 on all my dives (Thanks Scottsax!) and Matt slung a 40 on the dives where we went to recreational limits after the Gorgonian Corals.

Having my wife Cindy and Calvin’s girlfriend Kimmy along was a delight as well. Cindy and Kim rode the dive boat Notorious the first day, then spent the rest of the week relaxing, and in Cindy’s case, running around Tahsis and environs taking pictures of scenery and wildlife. Cindy’s got a ton of pics up on Facebook if you’re interested.

It is difficult to know what to write about without getting sidetracked into writing a book, so I’ll just try and share a few highlights.

**First of all, the Gorgonian Corals. These Corals are stunningly beautiful, and range in size from a few inches to wider than your arms can span. We found some as shallow as 80 fsw, and they really start in around 120 fsw and get thick below that. There are some monster specimens on the deep walls – words don’t do them justice. I feel so privileged to be among the few folks (relatively speaking) that actually have gotten to see these animals with their own eyes. They are found elsewhere, but the ones in Nootka Sound are by far the most abundant and diveable that I am aware of. Those who know me know that I can go deep but need a reason to do so – and believe me, I now have a reason! If this isn’t a reason to do some tech training and get a set of doubles I’ll never find one.

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**Many of the sites have Cloud Sponges, and I think we saw Chimney Sponges on every dive.

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**What’s not to love about Strawberry Anemones?!? I suppose they could become “old hat” for some, but I find them so dainty and beautiful that I never tire of looking at them. And it pays to go slow and look close. There are many critters that live and hide among them.

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**I loved the clouds of Yellowtail Rockfish! There were Coppers and Quillbacks and Blacks as well, and I saw a few Chinas – my first. Alas my camera set up can’t capture “clouds” of fish, but they are wonderful in my memory nonetheless.

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**How about Hooded Nudibranchs?! How about THOUSANDS of them?! How about Tens of Thousands?! And I am NOT exaggerating. Literally every dive we did, the Hoodeds would start in about 25 fsw and be everywhere until you hit maybe 10 fsw. I did not see one area of a dive site in that range that did not have Hooded’s. The video Matt posted will give you a small idea, and I’ll try and post some of the video I shot later. And these are BIG – the hoods of the larger ones were at least the size of my hand. The last picture of the bunch is a Hooded Nudi "dog pile" - there must be over 50 of them in that pile, and they aren't feeding, and those piles were everywhere!

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Matt took this shot of me taking pics of Hoodeds on a wall.

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**Topography and Visibility. There was a layer of fresh and salt water mixed (a halocline) on the surface that was sometimes 20’ thick. This layer made things a bit dark on all the dives. But even with that darkness viz was never less than 50-70’ and a few times more than that. I’ll never forget dropping into the darkness on Mozino Point after John and Calvin had gone deep on their rebreathers. As Matt and I approached 90 fsw I could see the faint flash of strobes in the deep as they took pictures. They later told me they didn’t start shooting till they hit 190fsw, so I was seeing their strobes 100’ deeper than I was. Surreal… and so, so, cool! One of my favorite sites is Boulder Alley. You drop in and are immediately faced with a house sized boulder. As you swim up to the top from the shore you’re at about 50 fsw, and as you crest the boulder there is another in front of that. You swim to that crest and you’re at 70 fsw and there is another massive boulder beyond that (at least house sized). You crest that one finding a peak covered with Orange Zoanthids and surrounded by clouds of Yellowtail Rockfish at 90 fsw, look over and there’s another! Yep, this trip made a deep diver out of me – every dive but two we went to at least 90 fsw. I hasten to add that we would not have HAD to do so – but the topography and walls and visibility are so amazing that it’s “easy” to go deep. Most of the sites had sheer vertical walls with stair steps stretching off beyond recreational depths. I’ve never had the sensation of flying as much as I had on these dives. The stories we were told of being at 200 fsw in the Winter and having AMBIENT light from the surface to the point where you could turn your light off have me salivating for some winter diving.

Matt took this shot of me floating along one of the walls we dove.

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Anyway, that’s enough for now… thanks for reading. If you get a chance, stop on back by – John and Calvin’s reports will be worth the wait! And by all means plan a future trip to Nootka Sound – an absolutely epic place to dive.
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Scott »

These folks were easy to please and a joy to share our world with. Laid back and easy going- welcome back anytime! Besides, they say some of the nicest things :thumbsup:

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Nootka Sound- probably the best kept secret on the west coast
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Joshua Smith
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Joshua Smith »

Scott wrote:Besides, they say some of the nicest things

To you, maybe. They say horrible, horrible things to me.
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Scott
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Scott »

Well, your name did come up a couple of times.....
Nootka Sound- probably the best kept secret on the west coast
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Pinkpadigal »

Tom...glad to hear your first trip diving in British Columbia was so amazing. And your photos are...so amazing! Thanks to all of you for sharing! =D>
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by ORDiver »

Thanks for the reports and pics and video. It looks amazing up there. Have ta make that trip sometime.
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John Rawlings
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by John Rawlings »

I'll be posting some pics later, but I thought that I'd chime in regarding the logistics of this trip.

I always hear from folks that a trip up to Nootka Sound would be "too far" or "too hard". Let me tell you - if you can drive to the Olympic Peninsula or Yakima, you can do this. When Spatman and I hit the border going North we had one car in front of us - ONE! The Canadian border Guard scanned our passports, asked a couple of questions about where we were going and why....and we were driving to the ferry landing in less than 3 minutes. When we hit the border on our return we had THREE cars in front of us. The trick is not to go on a Holiday weekend.

The ferry ride to Nanaimo is 2 hours and with the new C-Class ferries on line it is almost outrageously comfortable. From Naniamo to Tahsis takes about 4 - 4 1/2 hours, including a stop for lunch and without speeding. The countryside is beautiful and in many places you will want to stop to drink it all in!

I consider this drive quite simple and easy to do - just a matter of putting in the time. Once you're there, Scott and Jude have special rates for their fellow NWDC members and you'll have some of the finest diving in the world at your fin-tips! There's always the chance of rain - but Washington and Oregon divers should be used to that! The Winter diving up there is magical with superb vis and on sunny days the ambient light will reach even deep technical depths.

Regarding accomodations - there are many nice houses available to rent in Tahsis and that is the way that we chose to go. Jude set everything up for us and the house was well-maintained, clean and spacious with all of the amenities we needed and then some, (even a selection of Bruce Lee movies!). The cost of the house per person was so low that I don't think we could have gotten a run-down, leaky shack in Washington for the price we paid.

The rest of you folks in NWDC really, really need to start considering a trip to Tahsis. I know that each and every one of us is already thinking about our next trip up there.

More later....

- John
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spatman
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by spatman »

i still have a ton of pics and videos to sort, but here's a quick post to give you an idea of how big these hooded nudis were... and this one in the pic wasn't even the biggest we had seen...
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BDub
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by BDub »

Wow, awesome report and pictures, everyone.

Definitely on my list of places to go.
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by John Rawlings »

BDub wrote:Wow, awesome report and pictures, everyone.

Definitely on my list of places to go.
Brian....this is just scratching the surface. The potential for "new" undiscovered dive sites there is virtually endless. Scooters would be really useful tools to cover a lot of ground and locate spots for more extensive exploration.

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Tom Nic
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Tom Nic »

John Rawlings wrote:
BDub wrote:Wow, awesome report and pictures, everyone.

Definitely on my list of places to go.
Brian....this is just scratching the surface. The potential for "new" undiscovered dive sites there is virtually endless. Scooters would be really useful tools to cover a lot of ground and locate spots for more extensive exploration.

- John
...and while being a Tech Diver is NOT necessary to enjoy this place (I am not one) the prospects of deeper or longer dives here just had me salivating. The corals start at a bit before recreational limits and the best ones are deeper. But besides the coral is the structure - walls, stair steps, ginormous house sized boulders, etc etc. But deep or shallow, this is an amazing place.
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by BDub »

Tom Nic wrote:
John Rawlings wrote:
BDub wrote:Wow, awesome report and pictures, everyone.

Definitely on my list of places to go.
Brian....this is just scratching the surface. The potential for "new" undiscovered dive sites there is virtually endless. Scooters would be really useful tools to cover a lot of ground and locate spots for more extensive exploration.

- John
...and while being a Tech Diver is NOT necessary to enjoy this place (I am not one) the prospects of deeper or longer dives here just had me salivating. The corals start at a bit before recreational limits and the best ones are deeper. But besides the coral is the structure - walls, stair steps, ginormous house sized boulders, etc etc. But deep or shallow, this is an amazing place.
Awesome. I'm just as happy (my back is happier) with a single tank on my back as I am with doubles, stages and deco bottles. Those corals look mindblowing
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Tangfish »

I made it home from Tahsis to Seattle in less than 9 hours. It's really not *that* far (on the way up, we broke it up into 2 days by staying the night in Nanaimo). I had an awesome time. I'm still buzzing about it. Tom and Matt, awesome photos. I started going through mine last night but got distracted by Monday Night Football. I hope to comb through them tonight for the good ones. John, I have some shots of you that you'll like!
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by John Rawlings »

Tangfish wrote: John, I have some shots of you that you'll like!
As I do of you.....I'm still combing through them little by little. Hope to have some up here soon!
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no excuses
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by no excuses »

wow just wow,

I want to go lol
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spatman
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by spatman »

Tangfish wrote:I made it home from Tahsis to Seattle in less than 9 hours. It's really not *that* far (on the way up, we broke it up into 2 days by staying the night in Nanaimo).
i left tahsis at 8am and i was back in portland by 11pm. and that's with some time to kill at the ferry and a couple meals on the way. tahsis seems really remote, but it's just a day's drive...
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spatman
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by spatman »

a few more shots...
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the rest are here.

some more video to come soon...
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by Romer Treece »

Nice report and pics!

I LOVE Canada!

Makes me want to go back soon!!
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by John Rawlings »

Well, I finally was able to struggle out from the immense pile of work that awaited me when I returned home and started going through some pics! Since Matt and Tom have done such a great job of showing the Strawberry anemones, Hooded nudibranchs, barrel sponges and such, I figure that I'd talk a bit about the deep-water Gorgonian corals.....

Photographing them was my primary goal for this trip, and I wasn't disappointed! A good friend of mine, Vel Wilson, who knows the bottom at Mozino Point like the back of her hand, drove over from Campbell River with her buddy, Chuck, and she guided Calvin and I to the best location for them at the base of a particular wall. The Mozino Point dive site itself is SO colossal that unless you know where a particular thing is it is easy to go astray. Mozino Point is SO beautiful though, that that is usually not a problem as you will find marvelous things to photograph no matter where you wind up, but in this case we had a specific mission. We had been finding beautiful corals beginning at approximately 85 FSW, growing larger and more prolific as we got deeper....but we wanted to see the "big boys"!

As we descended the current became quite brutal, and didn't really begin to taper off until we were at depth. Being old and set in my ways, I decided to take it slow and easy on the descent and I found myself following Vel from a distance by the color of her bright yellow Force Fins! We over-compensated for the current and ended up West of where we had planned, but, recognizing the bottom contours, Vel led us quickly East and we almost immediately encountered the base of the wall at 190 FSW, covered with huge bright orange Gorgonians. It was simply STUNNING!

Her mission to guide us to the Gorgonians accomplished, Vel and Chuck then began their ascent, (they were on OC Doubles whereas we were both on CCR), and Calvin and I began to happily click away with our "Death Star" cameras, quickly using up our planned bottom time before beginning our ascent. Later on in the week, he and I returned to the same site to get some additional photos. Here are a few shots that I took of Calvin and some coral groups - many of the rest will ultimately appear in a future issue of Advanced Diver Magazine (ADM).

Click on the photos to expand them for better viewing....

A vertical shot of a cluster of corals at the base of the wall at Mozino Point. Once you expand the shot you should be able to see in the background that there are 8 different corals in this one photo.
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Here's a shot of Calvin immediately next to a beautifully shaped mid-sized coral.
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This was one of the larger specimens - somewhere around 4 feet across.
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Here's a group shot that shows part of the same coral as in the photo above at bottom center. You can get some sense of how large it is because Calvin is in the shot for perspective.
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One of the even larger, "bushier", corals.
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Re: What a week in Nootka Sound!

Post by fpoole »

Yep, I agree, what he said.... been up there 2 times, Last with Scott & Jude and did the Pub too.. .heheh.. almost the best part... Just wish it could be done on a 3-day weekend...

Hope all is well up there...
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