God's Pocket 10/11 -- Concierge diving in the far NW!

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LCF
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God's Pocket 10/11 -- Concierge diving in the far NW!

Post by LCF »

It was my distinct pleasure to be part of a group of 12 folks who made the long trip up north to do three amazing days of diving in the Browning Pass area this last week. Of the group, only three of us had ever dived the area before, and we three were eagerly awaiting the excitement and surprise the others would have, when they found out what things were like.

Unfortunately, the trip didn't begin with a bang, as our whole trip north (which began at 4 am) was done in rain, and the final boat ride from Port Hardy to God's Pocket was done against significant swell and chop. But the loading and the ride were our introduction to the God's Pocket crew, and a definite omen of what was to come. They were organized and methodical, and handled the rough seas extremely well.

We unloaded in a lovely, sheltered little cove. The colorful cabins are perched on the hillside above the bay, and have beautiful views of the sunsets.

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We unloaded gear in the rain, and dry stuff temporarily into the mess hall, which smelled enticingly of butter and garlic. It turned out, in fact, that the food for the entire trip was incredible. On a dive trip, food is fuel, and I don't expect much excitement of it. But Trevor's creations from the kitchen far exceeded edible, and his baked goods were heavenly. There was much competition over the mini-scones that melted in your mouth! I think this is the first trip I can remember where I ate everything set in front of me, with seconds on some things, and ate dessert every night. I haven't even dared approach my scale.

The lodgings are amazingly comfortable, considering the remote location. The first cabin and our little, separate one have in-floor heating, so one got up in the morning and stepped onto a WARM floor. I found this delightful. Each room has its own bathroom and shower, and at least for us, hot water was not an issue. The tap water is full of tannins and has an odd, brown color which is somewhat offputting at first, but it is free of bacteria and doesn't taste bad, and it was great to wash in. There is filtered water available for general drinking purposes as well.

The lodge has a "drying room", which is a heavily heated room for drying wet gear. Dry suits left there overnight were bone dry in the morning, even the neoprene ones. In addition, there are hooks outside each of the rooms for suit hanging. Our room had plenty of storage space for bags and for chargers, cameras and assorted other things that needed to come inside each night. And thanks to the battery and inverter system they have, there is power there 24 hours a day, although the heat goes off at 11. There was never any problem getting full charges on light, camera or scooter batteries.

The routine is pretty simple. You unload your gear onto the boat the first day, and it stays there. Their fill whips reach onto the boat for fills at the dock, and they have (I think he said) 4800 cf of gas on board for fills between dives when the boat doesn't return to the cove. The dive boat has an enclosed cabin which is heated, and they keep a big ice chest full of hot water on the back deck for hoods and wet gloves. Thermoses full of tea, coffee and hot chocolate help the surface intervals (as did Trevor's cookies!) The dive deck is spacious, and with 11 divers (we had one non-diver on the trip) we had plenty of room to gear up and move around. They weren't accustomed to big tanks or doubles, but built an adapter system the first night. It wasn't ideal but it worked; we had some suggestions about how to change the benches which I think they will implement, that will make things easier next time.

Entry is via giant stride from the starboard side of the boat. There are two gates, and there is a swim platform that stretches between them. This makes it easy for a crew member to be down at water level, to hand off cameras, extra bottles or scooters, or to assist a diver who requires it. It made me a little nervous the first time, seeing that hard surface beside me as I jumped, but it was a complete non-issue in practice.

Reboarding is special. This dive boat, in the remote PNW, has . . . an ELEVATOR! You swim up to the boat, grab the handholds, make sure your fins are clear of the front of the platform, and give the operator the thumbs up, and up you go! I have long been a ladder snob, but all ladders have now been downgraded in my estimation. I honestly don't know why every boat doesn't do this. It was way faster to get divers up than climbing the ladder. There was less risk of someone falling onto the divers remaining in the water. And it was FAR easier to get onto the platform in rough water than to duke it out with a flapping ladder. I'm a convert.

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Diving details to follow . . .
Last edited by LCF on Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
"Sometimes, when your world is going sideways, the second best thing to everything working out right, is knowing you are loved..." ljjames
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LCF
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Re: God's Pocket 10/11 -- Concierge diving in the far NW!

Post by LCF »

Of course, the diving up there is amazing. Over three days, all of us did nine dives, and some people did more. (Shore diving from the lodge in the evenings was quite possible, and a number of people did it. I didn't, although I love night dives, because three cold water dives a day is all I have in me.)

Sites range from huge, sheer walls like Browning Wall, or the outside of Hussar's Point, to sheltered bays like the OTHER side of Hussar's point, to the wreck of the Themis. All of the sites permit a heavily multileveled dive, so it's quite possible to start deep and work your way upwards, although I really saw no reason to go deeper than about 80 feet, as it did not appear that there was any real abrupt transition in the type of life below that depth. There are distinct transitions above there, though; below about 40 is the zone of sponges and metridiums, clad in yellow and orange and bright pink and white, and so thickly inhabited that there was no place even to put a finger to steady oneself against the current. (I got really good at spotting empty acorn barnacle shells for this purpose!) This picture gives you kind of an idea of what it is like, although we really need some of Scott Lundy's spectacular wide angle shots to convey the scale:

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Above 40, the rocks are coated with coralline algae in brilliant purple, and the kelp starts to appear. This area is full of rockfish of many species. My favorites are the China Rockfish. In their indigo and bright yellow coats, they stand out even before one's light hits them. I have no idea how they survive being so distinctive. A lot of other brightly colored things camouflage very well, but these guys don't look like ANYTHING they are living in. They must do okay, though, because we saw a lot of them.

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And, of course, one of the stars of the show on most of the sites are the huge, improbable Puget Sound King Crabs. Looking like something from a science-fiction movie, they cling to the walls, and despite their dramatic coloring, are VERY hard to resolve from their background, until you learn how to see them. Then you see them everywhere. One of the funniest moments in the trip was when Peter found a China rockfish to photograph, and I realized that right below it was a huge crab. I kept pointing to the crab, and Peter kept shrugging, because he had already SEEN the rockfish, and I ended up making crab claws with my hands and pointing again, and he still didn't see it. So I waved Lundy over, and he delightedly started taking pictures of the rockfish and chasing it around as it moved, and he STILL didn't see the crab. Of course, it turned out to be in most of his pictures!

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And then there are the basket stars, in their fractal geometric arrangements:

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Ascents and safety stops on many of the dives were done in the kelp, and the shallow water was full of jellies. I found that taking a close look at them was very rewarding, because many if not most had interesting little hitchhikers.

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One dive is very special. The bay at Hussar's Point is, for whatever reason, a perfect habitat for hooded nudibranchs. They cover the kelp and the rock surfaces in an almost unbelievable profusion, and many are bigger than anything I have seen at home. This is a dive to put photographers into spasms, as they desperately try to get just "the" shot of these interesting and photogenic creatures.

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There was plenty to do during surface intervals, too. Scott and I took a beautiful, if a bit damp, hike into the forest. It's very mysterious and spooky, and looks as though there should be elves behind every toadstool. Kayaks were available for those who wanted to use them, and Scott joined Ken and Claudette for a nice kayak around the bay on the last day. We watched river otters fishing in the cove before breakfast, and a deer came down to lick the salt off the kelp at low tide one evening. The lodge also has a very comfortable common room, with sofas and upholstered chairs and a wide-screen TV to review photos and videos. This was the site of the cocktail hour and the post-dinner discussions, except for the last night, when the weather permitted a fire in the outdoor firepit, and my friend Ken joined two of the lodge staff in an impromptu jam session. Watching Ken improvise a percussion section out of an empty five gallon water container, a hairbrush, a Cotal bottle with some lead shot in it, and a wooden box, was absolutely amazing!

At the end of the trip, Bill, the proprietor, asked us if we had any suggestions for improving his services. We had a couple minor ones, and he appeared to take them seriously. So next season, there may be a hot water hose on the boat to spray divers off as they come up, and the benches may be configured to be more large-tank and doubles friendly. There wasn't a lot to criticize. It is clear that a great deal of thought and effort, both obvious and not, has gone into designing and operating this place to make divers as comfortable and safe as possible. It really was "concierge diving", and considering the remoteness of the location, I was enormously impressed at what they manage to pull off.

We are going back next year.
"Sometimes, when your world is going sideways, the second best thing to everything working out right, is knowing you are loved..." ljjames
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LCF
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Re: God's Pocket 10/11 -- Concierge diving in the far NW!

Post by LCF »

Oh, and I forgot to mention -- all the photographs above are Peter's, and you can see the rest of the "best of" set here: http://www.belowandbeyond.biz/gp/index_2.html
"Sometimes, when your world is going sideways, the second best thing to everything working out right, is knowing you are loved..." ljjames
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Jan K
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Re: God's Pocket 10/11 -- Concierge diving in the far NW!

Post by Jan K »

Well, as I hoped for, great trip report accompanied by great photographs. I am green with envy :) :supz:
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DiveZen
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Re: God's Pocket 10/11 -- Concierge diving in the far NW!

Post by DiveZen »

Thanks Peter & Lynne. Especially love the story about (& pics of) the Puget Sound King Crab
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Blaiz
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Re: God's Pocket 10/11 -- Concierge diving in the far NW!

Post by Blaiz »

fantastic report lynn, i saw that elevator boat up there, and i was jealous even before i heard you got to go on it ;)
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Tom Nic
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Re: God's Pocket 10/11 -- Concierge diving in the far NW!

Post by Tom Nic »

Wonderful report Lynne! A very enjoyable read and what looks like a wonderful destination!
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Re: God's Pocket 10/11 -- Concierge diving in the far NW!

Post by Biodiversity_Guy »

Thank you so much for pulling together such a fun report. God's Pocket has been on my bucket list for quite some time. This just strengthened my resolve.
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