Northwest Dive Club

"How much have you spent so far?"
In nine years I've spent roughly $25k not including my boat, travel or charters. Easily 3X that if you include everything.

So here's a few tips on saving money in the long run....
Buy nice or buy twice isn't just a BS slogan, don't skimp out and try to buy cheap gear and expect it to last and for you to be happy with it.

If you think that you'll ever go the tec diving route, buy gear that will transition into tec diving.
- Backplate and wing (no poodle jackets)
- A good regulator (Scubapro MK25/17's or Apeks seem to tec diving norm, some people also use Hogs)
- Non split fins (Jets, turtles, F1's, and Slipstreams are the brands that come to mind)

Spend the extra cash and buy a really good drysuit and undergarment that fit correctly. The biggest reason people give up diving in the Northwest is that they are cold and miserable. Santi and DUI are the brands that I would recommend

- Don't spend a ton of money on a fancy computer. $300 should get you a decent nitrox capable computer to start. It can be used as a back-up if you decide to use a computer for tec diving

- Buy steel tanks used on Craigslist. HP 100's, 119's and 130's seem to be the popular choice. Stay away from AL 80's

It sounds like tec diving is where it gets really expensive.

I'm still a noobie so forgive me for asking a dumb question, but why should I avoid split fins? I was told split fins are actually better.

I hear you're not a real scuba diver until you've spent more money on the gear inside the vehicle you haul it around in than you did on the vehicle itself.

Iqjumpuw wrote:It sounds like tec diving is where it gets really expensive.

I'm still a noobie so forgive me for asking a dumb question, but why should I avoid split fins? I was told split fins are actually better.

While they excel at (recreational) flutter kicking, they are suboptimal at frog kicking and back-kicking. 99% of tech divers and 100% of cave divers use a paddle fin and don't flutter kick very much (it stirs up silt and there's little or no resting glide phase)

Echo wrote:I hear you're not a real scuba diver until you've spent more money on the gear inside the vehicle you haul it around in than you did on the vehicle itself.

That's easy with my vehicle! So I'm a REAL scuba diver!

Iqjumpuw wrote:
I'm still a noobie so forgive me for asking a dumb question, but why should I avoid split fins? I was told split fins are actually better.

\

It's not a dumb question at all! Like Capt. Jack said, plus those backup kicks and anti-silting kicks work awesome while taking video and taking pictures for recreational diving. Being able to learn how to precisely place yourself and move yourself around in the water column and not bring it down to zero viz is extremely useful! Split Fins are really difficult to do that with, but that also doesn't mean if you already have them that they don't work, and you need to go buy a new set of fins right now! They work, and get you in the water.

but why should I avoid split fins? I was told split fins are actually better

I would dive both and then pick the one you want to use.
Sometimes divers and gear are a little bit too over zealous on what others should use or not use.

While I dive paddle type of fins and like them -- One of my buddies dives Split fins and doesn't silt it up or have any issues.
He just likes them. If your gear is working for you that is all that matters.

I don't fault people for using split fins. But on the other hand its probably one of the most common purchases that ends up being repeated/regretted I.e. people get talked into split fins at a shop, then get out in the real world and X dives later (long before the splits would wear out) they decide to switch to a blade/paddle fin. Perhaps its because they borrow a pair, perhaps its a course or instructor requirement to have a blade fin, etc. I don't know very many divers who after their first 50-250 dives in a blade fin decide to switch to splits. Its usually the other way around.

BillZ wrote:
- Don't spend a ton of money on a fancy computer. $300 should get you a decent nitrox capable computer to start. It can be used as a back-up if you decide to use a computer for tec diving

I would argue the buy once on this one as well if you see yourself ever going the tec route. Used Petrel 1's come available as folks jump on the new Petrel 2's.

A recreational level nitrox comp will likely not support trimix, nor support gradient factors, or VPM. It will make an expensive bottom timer if you do ratio deco

Umm....I prefer not to think about that, as I start to shake my head and wonder why and quickly go dive and remind myself why I did it!

45 years diving but here's data from last 10. $17,567, average $1850/yr for 9.5 years. That is for Rec diving with low end cameras and includes about $500/yr for air & NITROX and occasional charter boat but not travel to exotic places which goes in the vacation column of my budget book.
I'm a roll model for how not to select dive gear and then hoard the old stuff. I probably would have spent more but it costs me much more than that just to maintain my 24 foot dive boat.
It's all worth it

Desert Diver wrote:

Echo wrote:I hear you're not a real scuba diver until you've spent more money on the gear inside the vehicle you haul it around in than you did on the vehicle itself.

That's easy with my vehicle! So I'm a REAL scuba diver!

Ha! I totally get it! the purchase of my first airfill surpassed the value of my dive van!

Yeah, I'm gonna have to not answer this question. After 27 years the cost isn't worth tallying, mostly because it would hurt too much to see the actual dollar value.

-Adrian