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![:wink: ;)](./images/smilies/wink.gif)
Low pressure or high? What size cylinder? Pref for maker? And did you come to this through trial and error and if so, what didn't work for you and why initially?
Let the games begin!
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Sounder wrote:Under normal circumstances, I would never tell another man how to shave his balls... but this device should not be kept secret.
Sounder wrote:Under normal circumstances, I would never tell another man how to shave his balls... but this device should not be kept secret.
CaptnJack wrote:Tanks to avoid:
AL80s in OW, too little gas too much lead
...
Sounder wrote:Under normal circumstances, I would never tell another man how to shave his balls... but this device should not be kept secret.
Feel the same way, plus hp100's are about the same weight as al80's(s80's with c80's they are the same dry weight). I own both, and even in warm waters I prefer my HP100, its either add 5 pounds for al80 or not with hp100. The extra weight off my back is a no brainer.CaptnJack wrote:In Puget Sound, AL80s are a mistake. They require too much lead to sink them on top of sinking exposure protection. They are fine for monkey diving and such but that takes a ton of lead. Double 80s are marginally ok, I have had 2 sets in the past. 154cf is not really enough gas for Puget Sound tech diving though and they only have 24cf more gas than a single 130 for recreational dives. AL80s really aren't worth buying as a recreational single tank and with only 77cf you'll have the smallest tank and have to cut short alot of dives. Most everyone in this thread is diving tanks which are ~20cf+ larger, that's kinda saying something right there about the value of buddying up with NWDC members using AL80s as recreational tanks.
At least steel lp80s can be overfilled a bit, and hp80s have the benefit for some of being fairly heavy. Al80s have basically nothing going for them here except relatively budget prices.